Sláinte

You aren’t in love with your amber unless you do a round-up of Scottish distillaries. Then, there are those long walks into brooding wilderness. Stormy seas. And haggis. There’s always haggis -Ruhi Batra To be fair, Scotland has a lot more delights to offer than just whisky. There is brooding wilderness, sparkling lakes, stormy seas, haggis and men in kilts.But invariably, most travellers succumb to the charms of the amber liquid that the world calls whiskey, and the Scots, whisky.
Whisky is probably the best known of Scotland’s manufactured products. From the outlaw distillers in the 18th century, it has become a global enterprise today, valued at £4.3 billion in 2013, which was 85 per cent of Scotland’s food and drink exports. It supports around 10,000 jobs directly, and 25,000, indirectly. But it isn’t just any whisky – derived from the Gaelic word uisgebeatha, meaning ‘water of life’ – that thirsty travellers come looking for. The off-the-charts demand for single malts whisky has brought about unprecedented interest and traffic to distilleries in Scotland, which have woken up to the advantages of welcoming whisky-loving tourists. With visitors buying whisky-related merchandise, eating in local restaurants and staying at local inns, the distilleries are not dependant on just selling whisky to generate profits. Scotland has nearly 100 active malt distilleries — 98 to be exact — so it really isn’t tough to find one.
The island of Islay alone has 11 distilleries. I chose to visit one in Tain, the little Royal Burgh that is Scotland’s oldest, going by the 1066 royal charter. With a population of less than 4,000 folks, Tain is perfect for a city-weary traveller looking for tranquillity and a digital detox. Hidden in its country lanes and narrow roads are treasures that unravel on long walks and over a pint in the local pub. With the sea on one side and rolling green fields on the other, Tain, with its friendly folk and friendlier dogs, is the kind of place you will want to call home. And also the fact that it makes one of the most popular single malt whiskies in the world. (Hint: it rhymes with orangie). Loved by millions around the world, the distillery — overlooking the dramatic Dornoch Firth — is the area’s biggest tourist attraction. The distillery runs 24 hours a day, seven days a week, with a little break around Christmas; but with the company targeting a staggering six million litres of Scotch a year, it’s always busy and whirring with sounds and smells. Large groups descend on the visitors’ centre for a peek into how barley and mineral spring water — the whisky’s water source is Tarlogie Springs — get turned into an extremely flavourful, silky-smooth amber liquid, all for the lowly price of 5 quid. You could also get a heritage tour for £120, which includes a trip to Tarlogie Springs and a gourmet lunch. And the fact that you can sample a dram of any range of single malts at the distillery shop, for extra, just makes the deal intoxicatingly sweeter. The summer season can get busy so pre-booking the tour is always a good idea.
The distillery today stands where the Morangie Farm once stood. It is said that the production of alcohol started at Morangie Farm in 1738, when a brewery was built that shared Tarlogie Springs, the farm’s water source. But in 1843, a former distillery manager, William Matheson, acquired the farm and converted the brewery into a distillery, equipped with two second-hand stills. Today, 180 years later, the number of shiny copper stills has gone up to 12, six wash and six spirits. Standing at 5.14 metres, they are the tallest in Scotland and also one of the reasons for the whisky’s unique finish. The tall stills ensure that only the purest, most delicate vapours are condensed into spirit. Sixteen men of Tain brought out the first ever batch of whisky. Expansion has meant that there are now 24 mashmen, stillmen and warehousemen who work round the clock, and are referred to on bottles, and in promotional leaflets as The Men of Tain. For whisky aficionados, the tour is obviously right on top of the to-do list, but even for those with little patience or taste for whisky, the tour offers fascinating insights into the traditional process of whisky making.
Like how 48,500 litres of wort — a sugary liquid produced from washing barley grist with hot water — and yeast take 52 hours to ferment in the steel washbacks. If you have a blocked nose, just a single whiff from one of those washbacks will set you right. Or that the whisky is matured in casks that were previously used to mature bourbon or wine, port or sherry. The guides are friendly, knowledgeable and passionate about whisky and more importantly, encouraging of those who want to savour and taste as many whiskies as possible. After five tastings or drams of whisky, life was indeed beautiful that glorious July afternoon. Savour your whisky – we tell you how If you can’t travel to Scotland, fret not.
Here are some tips on how to organise your very own whisky tasting.
- The type of glass that you use will help your cause massively. It is best to use one that has a narrow opening as this will channel and concentrate the aromas of the whisky towards your nostrils. This type of glass is called a snifter but small brandy snifters or white wine glasses will work just fine. Make sure your glassware is clean and free of detergent.
- Six to eight whiskies are plenty – especially if you are swallowing. If you taste too many whiskies, your palate will eventually become fatigued.
- Pour a reasonable amount of whisky into the glass and swirl it around for a short time to allow the oxygen to get into the liquid and the evaporation to begin. Let it breathe.
- Remember not to drink the whisky too fast (like a shot of cheap Tequila). Rather, savour it in your mouth to get the maximum flavour and benefit. When you swallow, there will be an alcoholic burn. Don’t give up. If you persevere, the whisky will reveal its true characteristics. Have fun trying to identify flavours that are present, and the ones you can taste. Should I add water or ice? A common question and one that only you can answer. Always try a whisky in its natural state first and then add water as this can release further flavours and complexity. It is far more pleasant with water in some cases and how much water you add is up to you. Make sure the water you have for your whisky is non-carbonated, room temperature, and clean (e.g., spring water)
Things to keep in mind
Guided tours start every half hour during summer from 10.30 am and the last tour starts at 3.30 pm. In winter, tours start at 10 am; groups are welcome.
How to reach Tain: There are up to eight trains to Tain from Inverness, daily. You could take the hourly bus or just choose to drive down for the 40-minute road journey